Lerderderg O’Brien’s Crossing Circuit Hike

Our third Green Trails Day Hike took us into considerably more demanding terrain.

On Sunday 27 August 2017, I led five other hikers on a challenging circuit from O’Brien’s Crossing in Lerderderg State Park. Although the Meetup event advertised a 23-kilometre route with approximately 750 metres of ascent, my Garmin recording ultimately measured 24.14 kilometres, 545 metres of elevation gain and a completion time of six hours and 38 minutes.

This was a substantial step up from our first two outings at Brimbank Park and Anakie Gorge.

This was not a route I already knew from earlier scouting visits. Before publishing the event, I went out and scoped the circuit myself so that I could understand the terrain, identify the important junctions and assess whether it would be suitable for a group.

Even with that preparation, Lerderderg delivered an adventurous day: ankle-deep river crossings, rough tracks beside the water, fallen timber, loose slate, steep scrambling and even light flurries of snow at the top of the range.

The dense forest of Lerderderg State Park set the scene for our most challenging group hike so far.

Our O’Brien’s Crossing circuit at a glance

Date: Sunday 27 August 2017
Starting point: O’Brien’s Crossing, Lerderderg State Park
Distance: 24.14 kilometres
Walking time: 6 hours 38 minutes
Total ascent: 545 metres
Participants: Six, including the hike leader
Trail type: Circuit
Difficulty: Hard; suitable for experienced and physically fit hikers
Terrain: Narrow riverside tracks, dirt management tracks, river crossings, fallen timber, loose slate, rock scrambling and uneven ground

Into the Lerderderg River Gorge

Lerderderg State Park lies north of Bacchus Marsh, between Melbourne, Ballarat and Blackwood. Despite being within reach of the city, parts of the park feel remarkably remote.

The defining feature is the Lerderderg River Gorge. Over time, the river has carved a gorge reaching approximately 300 metres deep through sandstone and slate. The result is a rugged landscape of steep forested slopes, narrow tracks, rocky riverbanks and deep gullies.

The park forms part of the Traditional Country of the Wurundjeri people. It also contains evidence of later gold-mining activity, including old water races, stonework and other features scattered through the northern section of the park.

Unlike a manicured walking destination, Lerderderg demands attention. Tracks can be narrow or indistinct, river levels can change after rain, fallen trees can obstruct the route and the steep topography can make navigation deceptive.

This was exactly why I had explored the circuit before attempting to lead a group around it.

Following East Walk beside the river

We began at O’Brien’s Crossing and followed East Walk for approximately 6.5 kilometres. This narrow track follows the Lerderderg River and initially provided a relatively level introduction to the day.

“Relatively level” did not mean smooth. The path frequently passed over uneven rocks and through low vegetation, with the river and steep gorge walls close beside us.

The Lerderderg River winding between the forested slopes of the gorge.

Following the narrow riverside track beneath one of the gorge’s imposing rock walls.

As we progressed, the walking became increasingly technical. Sections beside the river required careful foot placement, particularly where the track crossed loose rocks or squeezed between the water and the side of the gorge.

Uneven rocks made the riverside section slower and more demanding than an ordinary formed trail.

Large rocks created natural obstacles along the route. Some could be walked around, while others required us to climb over them.

Large rocks formed part of the route through the gorge.

Negotiating one of the rockier obstacles beside the Lerderderg River.

River crossings and fallen timber

The route included ankle-deep crossings of the Lerderderg River. Even at a manageable water level, river crossings introduce additional considerations: slippery rocks, cold water and the need to protect footwear and equipment.

At one crossing, a participant removed their shoes and socks before wading through with the support of a hiking pole.

Crossing the ankle-deep Lerderderg River with a hiking pole for additional balance.

A pair of hiking poles can provide useful points of contact during shallow crossings and on loose or uneven ground. They do not remove the risks associated with moving water, however, and every crossing should be assessed according to its depth, speed and footing.

Another technical section took us through old branches and logs that had been washed up beside the river. Rather than following a clear, unobstructed track, we had to step over, around and sometimes through the accumulated timber.

Fallen and washed-up timber added another layer of difficulty to the riverside route.

This was a good example of why the hike had not been advertised for novices. The challenge came not from any one dramatic obstacle, but from the accumulated effort of negotiating rough terrain over a long distance.

Climbing away from the river

After our early snack stop beside the river, the route began its major climb out of the gorge.

We headed towards Kenworthy Track, using the connection from Nolan Track to reduce the amount of scrambling required. A trail sign warned of a 150-metre climb ahead.

The Nolan Track junction marked the beginning of a sustained climb away from the river.

The climb included a steep embankment covered with loose, slippery slate. This was one of the most technical sections of the hike. Every step required care because the broken rock could move underfoot, particularly when weight was transferred onto a steeper section.

Climbing the steep embankment over loose slate above the river.

This section demonstrated the difference between distance and difficulty. A hike of more than 24 kilometres on a well-formed trail would already require good endurance; the same distance combined with unstable footing, scrambling and sustained climbing demanded considerably more concentration and physical effort.

Along the top of the range

Once we reached the higher tracks, the character of the hike changed again.

Our route connected with Whisky Track, Kangaroo Track and Websters Track. These wider four-wheel-drive tracks followed the higher ground around the gorge and provided forest views across the surrounding ranges.

The elevation also exposed us to a memorable change in the weather. Light snow began to fall as we crossed the higher part of the route.

Snow at this elevation might sound improbable, but 27 August 2017 brought a cold front across Victoria. The Bureau of Meteorology subsequently reported snow flurries down to approximately 250–350 metres in parts of central Victoria, including nearby Ballan.

For our group, the brief flurries added an unexpected winter atmosphere to an already memorable hike. They also reinforced the value of carrying warm and weather-resistant layers, even when most of a walk takes place at relatively modest elevations.

Returning by Byers Back Track

The final section followed Byers Back Track through Kangaroo Gully and back towards O’Brien’s Crossing.

Byers Back Track runs high above parts of the river and incorporates sections associated with old water races from the district’s gold-mining period. Although the gradient is more moderate in places, the narrow track and steep surrounding slopes still require concentration.

After 24.14 kilometres of river walking, scrambling and climbing, we returned to O’Brien’s Crossing six hours and 38 minutes after setting out, completing our toughest Green Trails Day Hike to date.

A final view of the Lerderderg River before completing the circuit at O’Brien’s Crossing.

Six hikers and a genuine adventure

Our first two events had each attracted one participant. For this third hike, five people joined me, bringing our group to six.

That growth was encouraging, but it also brought a greater sense of responsibility. This was a long route through rugged country, and I was leading people through terrain I had first needed to investigate for myself.

Scouting the circuit beforehand helped me understand its junctions and difficult sections, but conditions in Lerderderg are never completely fixed. River levels, fallen timber, track erosion and weather can all change the experience.

The day contained much of what makes hiking in Lerderderg memorable: the river winding through a deep gorge, quiet forest, exposed rock walls, rough physical challenges and the feeling of remoteness surprisingly close to Melbourne.

The light snow at the top of the range was an unexpected bonus—and something none of us had anticipated when setting out from O’Brien’s Crossing that morning.

Planning walks from O’Brien’s Crossing

Our recorded 24.14-kilometre route combined several tracks and does not appear to have a single matching guide on Trail Hiking Australia.

For information about parts of the route, see the East Walk, Nolan Track and Tunnel hike and the separate Byers Back Track guide. These overlap sections of our circuit but should not be treated as directions for the complete route described here.

Lerderderg contains hazardous terrain, river crossings and tracks that can be difficult to navigate. Before visiting, check current conditions and official information for Lerderderg State Park. Carry a suitable topographic map, allow ample daylight and do not assume mobile reception will be available.

Green Trails group hikes are organised and managed through Meetup. You can view the original Lerderderg O’Brien’s Crossing Circuit event and join the group to discover future hikes.