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February 26, 2018September 11, 2026
0

Lorne “Wonderland” Loop: 32km of Waterfalls and River Crossings

by greentain Great Ocean Roadtags 1,000–1,500m ascent, 25–50km, 6–9 hours, Cora Lynn Cascades, Erskine Falls, Forest walks, Grade 4, Great Otway National Park, Lookouts and views, Loop, Lorne, Otways, Phantom Falls, Lorne, River Crossings, Rivers and waterways, Waterfalls
Seven hikers carefully crossing the Erskine River in the fern-filled Otways.

Seventeen hikers gathered in Lorne on Saturday 24 February 2018 for one of our most ambitious day hikes—a custom 32km circuit joining several Otways tracks into one gigantic loop.

The route followed the Erskine River to Splitter Falls and Erskine Falls before continuing through Cora Lynn Cascades, the fern-filled gorge along Cora Lynn Creek and Phantom Falls. The final section returned to Lorne via Allenvale and Tramway Track, finishing with coastal views and a walk towards Lorne Beach.

Lee assisted me with leading the group throughout the day. We also planned a bailout point at approximately 25km for anyone struggling with the distance. Two hikers finished at that point, while the remaining 15 completed the full circuit.

The Garmin activity recorded 32.74km, 8hr51min and 1086m of elevation gain.

Hike details

  • Date: Saturday 24 February 2018
  • Scheduled time: 8:45am–4:45pm
  • Starting and finishing point: Lorne
  • Planned distance: 32km
  • Recorded distance: 32.74km
  • Recorded hiking time: 8hr51min
  • Elevation gain: 1086m
  • Attendees: 17 hikers
  • Full-loop finishers: 15 hikers
  • Bailout point: Approximately 25km
  • Route type: Loop
  • Difficulty: Grade 4
  • Leaders: Michael, assisted by Lee
  • Terrain: Rough dirt tracks, slippery rocks, mud, fallen trees and numerous river and creek crossings

Building one gigantic Lorne loop

This was not a single conventional walking circuit. I joined several trails together to create a long route linking some of the best forest, river, waterfall and coastal scenery around Lorne.

The main stages were:

  • Approximately 11km uphill beside the Erskine River to Splitter Falls and Erskine Falls
  • Approximately 7km from Erskine Falls to Cora Lynn Cascades
  • Approximately 6.5km through the Cora Lynn Creek area to Phantom Falls
  • Approximately 9km from Phantom Falls back to Lorne

With approximately 35 river and creek crossings, more than 1000m of climbing and almost nine hours of recorded hiking time, this was only suitable for experienced walkers with a strong level of fitness.

Following the Erskine River

The opening section took us upstream beside the Erskine River. Although the river created a beautiful route through the forest, progress was rarely straightforward.

The narrow trail passed beneath tall tree ferns and beside moss-covered rock walls. Fallen trees, slippery rocks and repeated river crossings slowed the group as the route climbed deeper into the Otways.

In places, the trail almost disappeared into the vegetation. Careful navigation was needed to locate the continuation of the track after crossings and through the thick ferns.

Three hikers walking along a narrow forest trail beside the Erskine River.
Three hikers following the trail beside the Erskine River.
Hiker looking towards a rocky wall along the Erskine River trail.
Examining one of the rock walls beside the river.
Michael walking beside the Erskine River surrounded by dense green ferns.
Looking through the ferns towards Michael further along the river.
Two hikers carefully following a narrow trail beside the Erskine River.
Navigating the rough trail beside the Erskine River.
Heavily overgrown and difficult-to-see hiking trail beside the Erskine River.
One of the less distinct sections of the Erskine River trail.

Crossing the river

River crossings were a defining feature of the hike. Some could be negotiated by stepping between rocks, while others required greater care and cooperation between hikers.

With such a large group, each crossing took time. Rocks could be slippery, particularly once boots were wet, and everyone needed to identify a stable line before committing to the next step.

The frequent crossings made this much more demanding than an ordinary 32km walk on formed tracks.

Two hikers walking along a fern-lined trail beside a river in the Otways.
Continuing beside the river between crossings.
Group of hikers resting and exploring rocks beside the flowing river.
Taking a break on the rocks beside the river.
Eleven hikers walking across a bridge surrounded by Otways forest.
Eleven members of the group crossing one of the bridges.

Splitter Falls and Erskine Falls

Splitter Falls was one of the first major waterfall stops on the climb. The flowing water and surrounding ferns provided an early reward, although most of the day’s distance still lay ahead.

We continued towards Erskine Falls, where a sign recorded an elevation of 300m and a waterfall height of 38m. After approximately 11km of predominantly uphill walking, this was a welcome place for a snack and short rest.

Water flowing down Straw Falls among rocks and dense green vegetation near Lorne.
Straw Falls beside the forest trail.
Cascading water flowing over a steep rocky slope in the Otways forest.
Water cascading down one of the rocky slopes.
Erskine Falls sign showing an elevation of 300m and waterfall height of 38m.
The information sign at Erskine Falls.

Through the fern-filled forest

Beyond Erskine Falls, the route continued through classic Otways forest. Tall tree ferns formed a green canopy over sections of the trail, while ground ferns, moss and fallen timber covered the forest floor.

This was exceptionally beautiful country, but fallen trunks and dense vegetation regularly interrupted the track. Some obstacles could be stepped over, while others required hikers to squeeze beneath, climb around or find a careful route through the ferns.

Hiker walking along a narrow trail surrounded by large green ferns.
Descending one of the narrow fern-lined trails.
Forest hiking trail passing through fallen timber and dense tree ferns.
A rough section of trail through fallen trees and ferns.
Narrow hiking trail passing beneath a large rock surrounded by Otways ferns.
The trail passing beneath a large rock.
Five hikers navigating a narrow forest trail through dense green ferns.
Five hikers finding their way through the ferns.
Large tree ferns, ground ferns and moss-covered trunks in the Otways forest.
Layers of ferns and moss across the forest floor.

Cora Lynn Cascades

Cora Lynn Cascades marked roughly the halfway point and provided our planned lunch stop.

The following section along Cora Lynn Creek became one of the most adventurous parts of the entire hike. At times the creek bed effectively became the route, with hikers moving between moss-covered rocks, fallen trunks and overhanging ferns.

It was less like following a conventional walking track and more like navigating through a narrow forest gorge.

Four hikers walking through Cora Lynn Creek among fallen trees and large ferns.
Four hikers making their way down Cora Lynn Creek.
Hiker navigating Cora Lynn Creek among moss-covered rocks, fallen trees and ferns.
Negotiating moss-covered rocks and fallen timber.
Hikers crossing a large fallen tree while following Cora Lynn Creek.
Climbing across a giant fallen log in the creek.
Fern-filled gorge following the rocky course of Cora Lynn Creek.
Looking down the narrow Cora Lynn Creek gorge.
Cora Lynn Creek gorge trail surrounded by fallen trees, moss and dense ferns.
The rough trail through the Cora Lynn Creek gorge.

Small details beside the trail

Although the waterfalls and creek crossings dominated the day, the smaller forest details were just as interesting.

White and yellow fungi grew from fallen logs, while moss softened the trunks of trees beside the trail. A close-up of common duckweed showed the tiny floating plants covering the surface of a quiet pool.

Cluster of white fungi growing on damp fallen timber in the Otways.
White fungi growing from a fallen log.
Yellow fungi growing from a fallen log among forest vegetation.
Yellow fungi adding colour to the forest floor.
Green moss growing across tree trunks in the damp Otways forest.
Moss covering the trunks beside the trail.
Close-up of common duckweed, Lemna minor, covering the surface of a forest pool.
Common duckweed floating on still water.

A planned bailout at 25km

Before the hike, we had identified a bailout point at approximately 25km. This gave anyone struggling with the distance a safe opportunity to finish early instead of committing to the entire circuit.

Two of the 17 hikers used this option, while 15 continued to complete the full 32.74km loop.

Providing a planned withdrawal point was particularly important on a route of this length. Fatigue often becomes much more noticeable beyond 20–25km, especially after repeated creek crossings, rough terrain and more than 1000m of climbing.

Choosing the shorter finish was a sensible use of the route’s safety plan, not a failure to complete the day.

Reaching Phantom Falls

Phantom Falls was the final major waterfall destination. By this stage the group had already covered approximately 25km and passed through the most rugged sections of the route.

We paused near the top of the falls before beginning the final section towards Allenvale and Lorne.

Group of hikers standing together at the top of Phantom Falls near Lorne.
A group gathered at the top of Phantom Falls.

Allenvale and the return towards the coast

The landscape changed as we approached Allenvale. The enclosed fern gullies gave way to broader tracks, cleared properties and open country.

An old sawn log beside the trail reflected the area’s forestry history, while a horse watched from one of the neighbouring paddocks. A sulphur-crested cockatoo resting on a park bench provided another memorable wildlife encounter.

Old sawn log beside the hiking trail near Allenvale with four hikers in the distance.
Passing an old sawn log near Allenvale.
Horse standing in a grassy paddock beside the walking route near Lorne.
A horse in one of the properties beside the route.
White sulphur-crested cockatoo sitting on the back of a park bench.
A sulphur-crested cockatoo resting on a park bench.

Cormorants beside the water

Two cormorants were spotted during the hike. One stood with its wings spread above the water—a familiar posture used by cormorants after swimming—while a second bird rested nearby.

Two cormorants perched on branches above the water, with one bird holding its wings open.
Two cormorants resting above the water.

Ocean views from Tramway Track

After spending most of the day enclosed by forest, the first ocean views created a dramatic change of scenery.

Tramway Track gave us views across the coast and Great Ocean Road, with the blue water beyond. After almost an entire day beneath ferns and tall trees, seeing Lorne and the ocean ahead made the finish finally feel close.

Coastal view from Tramway Track towards the ocean near Lorne.
Looking out towards the ocean from Tramway Track.
Three hikers looking towards the ocean from Tramway Track above Lorne.
Three hikers taking in the coastal view.

Returning to Lorne Beach

The final corner brought Lorne Beach into view. Thirteen of the hikers were photographed walking towards town, with the beach and coast opening ahead of them.

After 32.74km, approximately 35 river and creek crossings and 1086m of climbing, the return to Lorne completed an enormous and exceptionally varied circuit.

St George River meeting the ocean near Lorne on the return section of the hike.
The St George River flowing out towards the ocean.
Thirteen members of the hiking group walking towards Lorne Beach near the end of the loop.
Thirteen hikers walking towards Lorne Beach.
View of Lorne Beach and the coastline near the completion of the 32km hike.
Lorne Beach appearing around the final corner.

What the hikers said

The comments left after the event reflected both the difficulty of the hike and how much the group enjoyed the day.

“Awesome hike. Great leader. Well planned and good pace. Lots of lovely people on the hike. Fab scenery.”

Another member highlighted the characteristics that made the route so memorable:

“Thanks Michael and new assistant Lee for hosting today’s hike. Loved the company, tree ferns, mosses and lichens together with lots of water crossings. Amazing day!”

The work shared between the leaders was also appreciated:

“Thank you, Michael and Lee, for a fantastic hike! Really enjoyed it. Great group of people once again and great job by the leaders as always.”

One comment summed the day up especially well:

“Wonderful Wonderland day, lovely cheerful company, thank you Michael and Lee!”

Thank you to Lee for helping me lead such a large group over a demanding route, and to everyone who contributed to the cheerful and supportive atmosphere throughout the day.

The recorded result

The Garmin activity recorded:

  • Distance: 32.74km
  • Hiking time: 8hr51min
  • Elevation gain: 1086m

The scheduled event window was eight hours, but the Garmin hiking time exceeded that estimate. With 17 people, repeated water crossings, several waterfall stops and rough terrain, this was always going to be a substantial full-day undertaking.

Completing the entire circuit required fitness, patience, concentration and the ability to continue safely as fatigue accumulated. Fifteen hikers completed the full loop, while two made use of the planned 25km bailout.

Planning a Lorne waterfall hike today

This was a custom route completed in February 2018 and should not be treated as a current turn-by-turn navigation guide.

The complete historical route, photographs and detailed directions can be found in the Green Trails guide to the Lorne Erskine Phantom Falls 32km Loop.

A different present-day option is the 28.2km Lorne Waterfalls Circuit documented by Trail Hiking Australia. That Grade 4 circuit starts at Sheoak Falls Carpark and visits a different collection of waterfalls, so it should not be confused with the route described in this 2018 report.

Tracks, crossings and access arrangements can change after storms, flooding, fallen trees or maintenance work. Check the Great Otway National Park page and current change-of-condition notices before attempting any long walk around Lorne.

For printed topographic coverage, the Otways West, Central and East Outdoor Recreation Guide Map Pack includes Lorne on both the Central and East Otways maps. The 1:50,000 maps are designed for bushwalking, four-wheel driving, trail riding and touring, with tracks, recreational features and Lorne inset mapping.

Water levels should be assessed before committing to any route involving repeated crossings. Rain may improve the waterfalls while simultaneously making creek crossings dangerous or impossible. A safe plan should include an early start, reliable navigation, sufficient food and water, appropriate footwear, an agreed turnaround time and identified withdrawal points.

View the original Green Trails Meetup event.

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