On Sunday, 29 October 2017, four members of the Green Trails hiking group set out to climb Sugarloaf Peak in Cathedral Range State Park. The original Meetup event was titled Cathedral Ranges South Circuit via Wells Cave 15km Loop, although our completed route took us to Sugarloaf Peak through Wells Cave before returning via Canyon Track and Messmate Track.
This was an intentionally difficult hike for experienced participants. Wells Cave Track combines steep rock scrambling, exposed ledges, a narrow cave and sections of near-vertical climbing. It is certainly not a route for novice hikers or anyone uncomfortable with heights and confined spaces.
Hike details
- Date: Sunday, 29 October 2017
- Location: Cathedral Range State Park, Victoria
- Destination: Sugarloaf Peak
- Route: Wells Cave Track, Canyon Track and Messmate Track
- Hike type: Modified circuit
- Number of hikers: Four, including the hike leader
- Difficulty: Grade 5 – very difficult
- Advertised distance: 15km
- Advertised elevation gain: Approximately 800m
- Recorded statistics: No complete Garmin recording is available
Cathedral Range State Park
Cathedral Range State Park protects one of Victoria’s most distinctive mountain landscapes. Its sharply rising rocky ridge stretches above the surrounding forests and farmland, providing expansive views across the valleys on either side.
The park’s southern end is dominated by Sugarloaf Peak, which rises to approximately 920 metres. Several routes lead to the summit, but Wells Cave Track is by far the most adventurous. Parks Victoria classifies it as a Grade 5 walk intended only for fit and very experienced bushwalkers.
I had climbed Sugarloaf Peak three times before this event, including one previous ascent through Wells Cave. That experience was especially important when leading a group along a route involving exposed scrambling and sections where the way forward is not always immediately obvious.
Approaching Wells Cave
The initial approach passed through open eucalypt forest before the terrain became progressively steeper and rockier. As we gained height, the surrounding forest began to open into views across the ranges.
The relatively ordinary forest trail soon gave way to the rock that defines the upper section of the mountain. From here, the hike became less like conventional bushwalking and more like an unassisted scramble.
Participants needed to use their hands as well as their feet, carefully testing each foothold and maintaining space between hikers. The exposed setting and increasingly steep rock faces made this part of the climb both demanding and memorable.
Through Wells Cave
Wells Cave is not a conventional underground cave with a wide entrance and open chamber. It is an extremely narrow passage through the rock, requiring hikers to squeeze through before emerging onto the steep upper section of the climb.
Large or heavily loaded backpacks can make the passage particularly difficult. Parks Victoria now advises against carrying backpacks through Wells Cave and recommends using the track only for the ascent. Anyone attempting the route should check the latest advice and assess whether both they and their equipment can safely fit through the confined space.
Although a compact hiking headlamp may help inside the darker passage, it does not make the route suitable for inexperienced hikers. Confidence with confined spaces, exposed scrambling and steep rock remains essential.
After emerging from Wells Cave, we still had to negotiate one of the most difficult parts of the ascent. The route continued directly up a steep rock face, requiring careful hand and foot placement.
Looking back from higher on the climb provided a clear impression of how steep and exposed this approach to Sugarloaf Peak really is.
Reaching Sugarloaf Peak
Sugarloaf Peak is the highest point in Cathedral Range State Park and provides impressive views across the rugged ridge, surrounding forests and nearby valleys. Reaching the summit through Wells Cave makes the view particularly rewarding because of the physical and technical effort required to get there.
The exposed rock around the summit can become hazardous in rain, strong wind or poor visibility. Wells Cave Track should only be attempted in dry, stable conditions, with enough remaining daylight to complete the descent safely.
There are no dependable natural water sources along the upper route, so carrying enough water is essential. The original event advised participants to bring three to four litres, along with lunch and snacks.
Returning via Canyon and Messmate Tracks
Rather than descending through Wells Cave, we returned from Sugarloaf Peak using Canyon Track. This remains a steep and difficult Grade 5 route involving rock scrambling, but it avoids trying to reverse through the confined cave passage. Wells Cave is officially recommended as an ascent route only, with Canyon Track used for the descent.
From the lower slopes, we continued back towards the cars by way of Messmate Track. This section passes through dense messmate forest and provides a substantial contrast to the bare, exposed rock encountered around Sugarloaf Peak.
No complete Garmin activity was recorded for this hike, so I have not included an estimated final distance, completion time or elevation gain. The figures in the original event listing related to the intended 15km southern circuit rather than the modified route completed on the day.
Preparing for Wells Cave Track
This is one hike where appropriate preparation matters considerably more than achieving a particular distance. Anyone considering Wells Cave Track should be comfortable with:
- Grade 5 bushwalking
- Exposed heights and narrow ledges
- Confined spaces
- Unassisted rock scrambling
- Short sections of near-vertical climbing
- Route finding over rocky terrain
- Rapidly changing mountain weather
Sturdy footwear with dependable grip is essential. Hiking poles are generally less useful during the technical scrambling sections because hikers need their hands free, although collapsible poles may assist on the easier approach and return tracks if they can be securely stowed.
Gaiters can provide some protection from scratches, loose debris and vegetation on the lower trails. My Sea to Summit Quagmire gaiters review explains their practical uses and limitations. They should not be considered snake-proof.
A printed map, offline navigation and an emergency communication device are also sensible additions. Phone reception can be unreliable in the park, so hikers should not depend on a mobile phone as their only means of communication. Green Trails carries a selection of Victorian hiking maps for planning walks throughout the state.
A demanding Cathedral Range adventure
Wells Cave offers one of Victoria’s most adventurous approaches to a mountain summit. The combination of a confined rock passage, exposed climbing and the final ascent to Sugarloaf Peak makes it a memorable experience, but also one that deserves to be approached conservatively.
Four hikers joined this Green Trails event, which was organised through Meetup. The original listing can be viewed on the Cathedral Ranges South Circuit Meetup event.
For detailed route information, maps and planning notes, see the Cathedral Range Southern Circuit guide on Trail Hiking Australia. Before attempting the climb, check the current Wells Cave Track information and park conditions published by Parks Victoria.